A beautiful drive through the mountains took us to the charming arts-colony town of Spoleto. Famous for the Spoleto international arts festival, Spoleto also offered to us a hotel OUTSIDE the wall of the historic center, WITH a parking space (yay). We checked in to the Hotel Clarici, then spent two days exploring. The Museum of Costume and Textile was worth a visit, but also under construction so we couldn’t see it all. Check out the shoes from the 1700s. We toured one of many churches, and saw ancient confessionals, sacred art, and a Fra Fillipo Lippi. After a midday tour of the Rocca, the immense fort that overlooks all of Spoleto, we stopped for lunch at the hilltop bar/cafe. Mike had the panini. Liz ordered tagliere because she thought it was pasta — but no! Tagliere just means “cut up pieces,” so we split our “cut up pieces” of cheese, bruschetta, salsiccia, et al. Although we were hoping to visit the Spoleto museum, which occupies the fort, we couldn’t. It was closed. We are still unable to puzzle out the Italian system for hours of business. Are there any?
Off to L’Aquila, the capital city of Abruzzo, founded by the Hohenstaufen Emperor Frederick II if you care about these things. We arrived in time for market day, where we could choose between fruit and pajamas, vegetables and copper pots, kitchen towels and calipers, or the latest fashions from Milan (sort of). A tour of the Castello, the historic fort that guards this town, brought us to the Museo Nazionale d’Abruzzo, which holds the greatest treasures from the region, including many Etruscan pieces, coins from Etruscan, Roman and Medieval periods, sacred art, and a big ol’ mastodon-type thingie (except twice as big). Viewing the sacred art through the years was an interesting study in seeing how long it took artists to begin depicting the infant Jesus as a baby. In most early works, he appears as a miniature man. As the years wear on, he becomes more baby-like. We particularly like, however, the painting showing a dubious-looking Joseph off to the side, giving Jesus the hairy eyeball. Joseph doesn’t look too sure.
There’s much to explore in the province of Abruzzo, which isn’t a tourist mecca, but should be. We plotted a loop that would last us the day. First to Prestocostanzo, a little-visited Abruzzese hilltown. Of course, we took the requisite door pictures. Then on to Pescaseroli, with a stop at the Lago Barrea for fresh air and pictures. (The mountain switchbacks are a bit intense). A typical Italian lunch (e.g. delicious), and off to Scanno, which we’d never heard of, but occupied just the right spot on the map. The mountains are lovely and dotted with sheep. We scared up a shepherd, relaxing in his yellow slicker alongside the ditch. We’ve seen a thousand hill towns, but Scanno may be the loveliest yet — steep, steep streets, no two doors alike (many homes have a main door, and then a lower “death” door, built long ago as the designated exit for dead bodies). The Scanno streets are filled with children, playing, riding bicycles, taking a moment, just enjoying life. Check out the sixteen sacred statues, all crammed into a tiny grotto-like church and viewable through a window. On a return trip, Scanno will definitely be on the “stay-over” itinerary. But then came the road from Scanno back to Sulmona. Double eek. At the last, we caught a beekeeper tending his hives. We left after being interrupted by two gentlemen who pulled over for the ubiquitous Italian public wizz.
We love Sulmona! We returned here because of our love for it ten years ago. We found a great place to stay right in the old town at Hotel Stella and the prop. Roberto Bono used his best English to give us special attention and good advice. Our room was spotless and the coffee bar (also breakfast area) is beautiful with many local, modern art pieces hanging. Sulmona, birthplace of the poet Ovid, is famous for it’s candied almonds, which are called Confetti, and formed into intricate flowers, bouquets, grape clusters, and more. Every night, the entire town comes out to stroll, shop, argue politics, and smoke.
In the early 1900s, Antonio Pietrangelo and his wife Maria emigrated to the United States with their two small daughters, Asunta (Sue) and Mary. (Petrangelo family photos here) Once here, they set about creating many more children, including Liz’s dad. So, a visit to the ancient homestead was in order. Roccamorice sits atop a hill in the high lands of Abruzzo. Not much has changed there in hundreds of years, although we’ve seen quite a few changes since we visited 10 years ago. More new construction, and someone has added an “E” to the monument dedicated to all of those who left. It now reads “Al Fratelli Emigranti,” whereas 10 years ago, it read “Al Fratelli Migranti” (meaning To our brother emigrants.) Notice the church where Grandma and Grandpa were married, and where both of the girls were baptized. We visited midday, which is the time when everyone in Italy is at home eating, so the streets are empty. We found a bar with a bathroom, and watched the news in Italian, trying to puzzle out just exactly what had happened to Lehman Brothers. We knew it was something bad, but beyond that….well… After Roccamorice, we toured Chieti, home of the archeology museum, which houses a large collection of Etruscan artifacts. Then, since we were only 25 miles from the Adriatic, we had to go –see Pescara, sniff the sea air, pick up two smooth stones, and walk on the sand. Roccamorice, Italy or
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Just outside Monte San Savino, and near our villa Pia Modere, lies the San Luciano Winery, an artisanal vineyard with 63 hectares of grapes, including Trebbiano, malvasia, grechetto, sangiovese, canaiolo, and montepulciano varieties. Proprietor Stefano Ziantoni graciously explained his processes and helped us sample the wines, which are lovely. Should you go (and you should), the winery is in the hills of Monte San Savino near Arezzo, from the E78 exit at Montegnano towards Alberoro. After a rainy day of touring, we visited the Belvedere Ristorante, recommended by Stefano. Proprietor Massimo Rossi is one of the finest somaliers in the region. You can see him here in his kitchen and his bar as we enjoy dinner on our last night at the villa.
Report #5 — On the recommendation of Rick Steves, we set out for Volterra, a good two million hours away. After a night of heavy eating and many, many mountain switchbacks, carsickness set in for some of our party. Patty navigated, Mike drove, and Liz lurched grimly from side to side. We stopped for lunch (those who could eat!) in Colle di Val d’Elsa and then on to Volterra. Based on the recommendation of Rick Steves, Volterra is no longer a sleepy, undiscovered place. We walked the town streets (beautiful), shopped for a few mementos, and ate gelato — a daily requirement. The Roman ruins were wonderful. Stopped to photograph the big mysterious “O” and then drove the long, long ride home — this time on the AutoStrada, which is much less curvy. Volterra or
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Report #6 — The Villa Podere Miri is the place to be for painting, reading, palm-reading, swimming and resting. But that doesn’t mean we stay. The day brought a visit to San Sepulchro, another Tuscan hill town, and then a return visit to Arezzo since it wasn’t raining. Some light shopping was in order, but we are still looking for the perfect thing. One suspects it’s nowhere in the world! Buy what’s in front of you, already! The weather has cleared up, and we closed the day with a beautiful meal of roasted vegetable salad, hard cheese under a balsamic glaze, and a beautiful pork roast with fresh hericot verts. Molto yummo.
A leisurely start to the day with cold pizza for breakfast. We were the last of our group to leave the villa, then drove to Cortona, being led all the way by our GPS girl. She is very strict, although her Italian pronunciation is very bad. Cortona is a crazy place, with slopes that seem to go straight up. Tough for old coots like us. Thought we were gonna die. You need to be in good shape to be Italian. Strolled the shops, looked at fancy purses, and ate a gelato. Then back to the villa for a rest. Tonight, we’ll go to Monte San Savino and eat at a restaurant recommended by our local vintner.
Report #4 — Eggs for breakfast and then off to explore. A day of pouring rain, so we drove until we arrived at a town — Lucignano — that happened to be between downpours. More Italian doors to photograph. Nothing to eat, though, as everything in Italy is closed between 1 and 5, plus it’s Sunday, when everything is closed all day. A pretty walk in a beautiful walled city, then a ride home in the torrent. Back at the villa, between rain showers, the group foraged in the surrounding grounds for fresh blackberries, figs, pears, and one persimmon. Beautiful fresh fruit grows everywhere. Patty fell in a sinkhole, after having survived being punched in the face by Mike (an accident, or so he says).
A beautiful drive through the mountains took us to the charming arts-colony town of Spoleto. Famous for the Spoleto international arts festival, Spoleto also offered to us a hotel OUTSIDE the wall of the historic center, WITH a parking space (yay). We checked in to the Hotel Clarici, then spent two days exploring. The Museum of Costume and Textile was worth a visit, but also under construction so we couldn’t see it all. Check out the shoes from the 1700s. We toured one of many churches, and saw ancient confessionals, sacred art, and a Fra Fillipo Lippi. After a midday tour of the Rocca, the immense fort that overlooks all of Spoleto, we stopped for lunch at the hilltop bar/cafe. Mike had the panini. Liz ordered tagliere because she thought it was pasta — but no! Tagliere just means “cut up pieces,” so we split our “cut up pieces” of cheese, bruschetta, salsiccia, et al. Although we were hoping to visit the Spoleto museum, which occupies the fort, we couldn’t. It was closed. We are still unable to puzzle out the Italian system for hours of business. Are there any?
