Just outside Monte San Savino, and near our villa Pia Modere, lies the San Luciano Winery, an artisanal vineyard with 63 hectares of grapes, including Trebbiano, malvasia, grechetto, sangiovese, canaiolo, and montepulciano varieties. Proprietor Stefano Ziantoni graciously explained his processes and helped us sample the wines, which are lovely. Should you go (and you should), the winery is in the hills of Monte San Savino near Arezzo, from the E78 exit at Montegnano towards Alberoro. After a rainy day of touring, we visited the Belvedere Ristorante, recommended by Stefano. Proprietor Massimo Rossi is one of the finest somaliers in the region. You can see him here in his kitchen and his bar as we enjoy dinner on our last night at the villa.

San Luciano winery tour or

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Report #5 — On the recommendation of Rick Steves, we set out for Volterra, a good two million hours away. After a night of heavy eating and many, many mountain switchbacks, carsickness set in for some of our party. Patty navigated, Mike drove, and Liz lurched grimly from side to side. We stopped for lunch (those who could eat!) in Colle di Val d’Elsa and then on to Volterra. Based on the recommendation of Rick Steves, Volterra is no longer a sleepy, undiscovered place. We walked the town streets (beautiful), shopped for a few mementos, and ate gelato — a daily requirement. The Roman ruins were wonderful. Stopped to photograph the big mysterious “O” and then drove the long, long ride home — this time on the AutoStrada, which is much less curvy. Volterra or

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