There’s much to explore in the province of Abruzzo, which isn’t a tourist mecca, but should be. We plotted a loop that would last us the day. First to Prestocostanzo, a little-visited Abruzzese hilltown. Of course, we took the requisite door pictures. Then on to Pescaseroli, with a stop at the Lago Barrea for fresh air and pictures. (The mountain switchbacks are a bit intense). A typical Italian lunch (e.g. delicious), and off to Scanno, which we’d never heard of, but occupied just the right spot on the map. The mountains are lovely and dotted with sheep. We scared up a shepherd, relaxing in his yellow slicker alongside the ditch. We’ve seen a thousand hill towns, but Scanno may be the loveliest yet — steep, steep streets, no two doors alike (many homes have a main door, and then a lower “death” door, built long ago as the designated exit for dead bodies). The Scanno streets are filled with children, playing, riding bicycles, taking a moment, just enjoying life. Check out the sixteen sacred statues, all crammed into a tiny grotto-like church and viewable through a window. On a return trip, Scanno will definitely be on the “stay-over” itinerary. But then came the road from Scanno back to Sulmona. Double eek. At the last, we caught a beekeeper tending his hives. We left after being interrupted by two gentlemen who pulled over for the ubiquitous Italian public wizz.
We love Sulmona! We returned here because of our love for it ten years ago. We found a great place to stay right in the old town at Hotel Stella and the prop. Roberto Bono used his best English to give us special attention and good advice. Our room was spotless and the coffee bar (also breakfast area) is beautiful with many local, modern art pieces hanging. Sulmona, birthplace of the poet Ovid, is famous for it’s candied almonds, which are called Confetti, and formed into intricate flowers, bouquets, grape clusters, and more. Every night, the entire town comes out to stroll, shop, argue politics, and smoke.
In the early 1900s, Antonio Pietrangelo and his wife Maria emigrated to the United States with their two small daughters, Asunta (Sue) and Mary. (Petrangelo family photos here) Once here, they set about creating many more children, including Liz’s dad. So, a visit to the ancient homestead was in order. Roccamorice sits atop a hill in the high lands of Abruzzo. Not much has changed there in hundreds of years, although we’ve seen quite a few changes since we visited 10 years ago. More new construction, and someone has added an “E” to the monument dedicated to all of those who left. It now reads “Al Fratelli Emigranti,” whereas 10 years ago, it read “Al Fratelli Migranti” (meaning To our brother emigrants.) Notice the church where Grandma and Grandpa were married, and where both of the girls were baptized. We visited midday, which is the time when everyone in Italy is at home eating, so the streets are empty. We found a bar with a bathroom, and watched the news in Italian, trying to puzzle out just exactly what had happened to Lehman Brothers. We knew it was something bad, but beyond that….well… After Roccamorice, we toured Chieti, home of the archeology museum, which houses a large collection of Etruscan artifacts. Then, since we were only 25 miles from the Adriatic, we had to go –see Pescara, sniff the sea air, pick up two smooth stones, and walk on the sand. Roccamorice, Italy or
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South of Sulmona, Italy
