Got an early start today, and discovered a whole area of town not seen before, just outside our hotel. Toy shop, meat shop, restaurant, bunch of cops standing around waiting for trouble that never happens. First stop — The Basilica of San Francesco, built in 1237. Outside are the Tombs of the Glossarists — airborne catacombs for teachers of Roman law. Then on to the flower mart, and the Trambus Open. One all-day pass buys you “hop on, hop off” privileges, and a Bologna-wide tour. We opted to “hop off” in the middle of nowhere, but got a great panoramic view of the city skyline in the bargain, followed by a long slog in the heat. Back to the room for exhausted napping. It it so very, very hot. Molto caldo. But the Italians don’t seem to sweat. The men wear long-sleeved shirts with ties and jackets. Evening was devoted to shopping. Found a small wind-up surfer for Conner, an Opinel for Mike (nifty folding knife) and a purse-size fan for Liz, who has taken to pointing it at sweating waiters and waitresses, who seem grateful, or at least not too annoyed. Dinner at Cafe du Midi Restaurant and Pizzeria at Via Porto Novo. Home for a shower and a long, drained sleep.
An earlier start today, as we have learned that everything closes at 1, and that by 1 we will be exhausted and sweaty and will need to go back to the hotel to dry out. A creepy mime greets us in the Piazza, a small part of the endless activity there. We see a Ferrari parked in a no-parking zone (even the manniquins stare), then schlep across town to the Museum of Anatomical History for a look at the way medicine used to be taught (apparently if you were a good student, you could get your name and family crest on a plaque that would still be there hundreds of years later. Take note, Kelly). Outside the Museum is a statue of Galvani, the fellow who figured out that if you shocked frog legs with electricity, you could make them jump. We’re guessing he also figured out how to galvanize stuff, since his name is the same. Mike was pretty thrilled by this.
Further schelpping takes us to the Botanical Gardens at the University of Bologna — oldest University in the world. The gardens seem hot and depressed. Liz thought hers was the Garden of Tough Love (“if you can survive in my garden, you can stay”) but clearly, Bologna is the real Garden of Tough Love.
On the walk home, we see a burned-up car and 5 incinerated motorcycles, to add to our collection of Unexplained But Interesting.
After our daily nap and escape from the heat, we emerge to find food. After a lovely al fresco meal of Ravioli with Butter and Sage (ravioli con burro e salvia) and tortellini with prosciutto and cream sauce, a stop at Piazza Maggiore gives us a wireless connection. We find 3 chairs (priceless) and sit for a moment, but then are tossed out. “Chiuso!” So we sit on the warm pavement to upload photos and send email messages home. Liz is accompanied by a fellow emailer, who appears to be both a mime and a Ryan Air employee. Possible? A Mime/Pilot? Think about it, Nick….
Off to L’Aquila, the capital city of Abruzzo, founded by the Hohenstaufen Emperor Frederick II if you care about these things. We arrived in time for market day, where we could choose between fruit and pajamas, vegetables and copper pots, kitchen towels and calipers, or the latest fashions from Milan (sort of). A tour of the Castello, the historic fort that guards this town, brought us to the Museo Nazionale d’Abruzzo, which holds the greatest treasures from the region, including many Etruscan pieces, coins from Etruscan, Roman and Medieval periods, sacred art, and a big ol’ mastodon-type thingie (except twice as big). Viewing the sacred art through the years was an interesting study in seeing how long it took artists to begin depicting the infant Jesus as a baby. In most early works, he appears as a miniature man. As the years wear on, he becomes more baby-like. We particularly like, however, the painting showing a dubious-looking Joseph off to the side, giving Jesus the hairy eyeball. Joseph doesn’t look too sure.
We love Sulmona! We returned here because of our love for it ten years ago. We found a great place to stay right in the old town at Hotel Stella and the prop. Roberto Bono used his best English to give us special attention and good advice. Our room was spotless and the coffee bar (also breakfast area) is beautiful with many local, modern art pieces hanging. Sulmona, birthplace of the poet Ovid, is famous for it’s candied almonds, which are called Confetti, and formed into intricate flowers, bouquets, grape clusters, and more. Every night, the entire town comes out to stroll, shop, argue politics, and smoke.
Report #4 — Eggs for breakfast and then off to explore. A day of pouring rain, so we drove until we arrived at a town — Lucignano — that happened to be between downpours. More Italian doors to photograph. Nothing to eat, though, as everything in Italy is closed between 1 and 5, plus it’s Sunday, when everything is closed all day. A pretty walk in a beautiful walled city, then a ride home in the torrent. Back at the villa, between rain showers, the group foraged in the surrounding grounds for fresh blackberries, figs, pears, and one persimmon. Beautiful fresh fruit grows everywhere. Patty fell in a sinkhole, after having survived being punched in the face by Mike (an accident, or so he says).
Report #2 — Only a few short hours down the AutoStrada is the charming medieval town of Arezzo. Cobblestone streets, picturesque shops, and many fashionable women in impractical shoes. We arrived in the rain, and sought shelter at the first restaurant we could find. Ravioli with burro e salvia (butter and sage) for Mike and Liz and insalata (salad) for Patty. Our waiter, Marcello, was a great admirer of Mike’s iPhone. The rain let up and we wandered the town, where Mike was able to increase his collection of Italian door photos.
